Tuesday, June 21, 2011
DAY 16 of Fr Ben's Camino > Text from Fr. Nebres, SJ
Am in Hormillos del camino unspoiled by tech no internet so no update today wil send tmrw pls tel rona joy thanks
Day 12: Belorado to Atapuerca, 30.4 km (32.9 adjusted for climbs)
The stage today went longer than in my original plan, which was to go
Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, 24.3 km, but all the staying places in
San Juan were booked (when I passed by, there were several tourist
buses parked, so a lot of tourists). I was referred to Atapuerca, 6 km
further and am here now staying at casa rural Papasol, right beside
the parish church.
It was a very long, but now particularly difficult walk. The main
difficulty was the heat, as most of the way, from noon on, was under
the sun. It was great when there were shaded places. In terms of time,
I left 8 am and arrived in Atapuerca 5 pm, with about an hour for a
lunch and a couple of refreshment breaks, so 8 hours or more of
walking.
Had a good breakfast in Belorado and also bought something like a big
mamon the night before just in case. Kept walking with a couple of
water breaks till Villafranca Montes de Oca, 12 km away. Had a ham and
tomato bocadillo and a coke. And a cafe con leech. By 1145 I was back
on the road and this stage went on and on. There were several climbs
(not very high), but mostly just long, long stretches of open road
under the sun. It felt like a very, very long 12 km. till San Juan de
Ortega. A lot of it was through woods (on the side, so no protection).
Not really difficult, but tedious. I kept asking when do we get there.
Finally got to San Juan de Ortega a little after 3. Bought a cold
drink from a vend, which did funny things with change again. Took
pictures. Lots of people around (tourist buses as I mentioned).
From San Juan another hour and a half to Atapuerca. It was great to
have a shower!
Many people I now meet over and over again. An Italian swiss
gentleman, who stayed in the same pension, but whom I met back in
Roncesvalles, a coupled of Italians whom I see at mass and who
congratulated me on getting to San Juan. New ones: a young man from
Sweden and a Brazilian, who were walking together.
Last night, the priest who said the Pentecost mass in the Church of
Santa Maria in Belorado, was very good. Young, but not as young as the
night before. He gave a very good Pentecost sermon. After the mass, we
gathered in the Chapel of Santiago El Peregrino. He did a nice ritual
of blessing. I took pictures of Santiago the Pilgrim, an excellent
statue.
All for now.
Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, 24.3 km, but all the staying places in
San Juan were booked (when I passed by, there were several tourist
buses parked, so a lot of tourists). I was referred to Atapuerca, 6 km
further and am here now staying at casa rural Papasol, right beside
the parish church.
It was a very long, but now particularly difficult walk. The main
difficulty was the heat, as most of the way, from noon on, was under
the sun. It was great when there were shaded places. In terms of time,
I left 8 am and arrived in Atapuerca 5 pm, with about an hour for a
lunch and a couple of refreshment breaks, so 8 hours or more of
walking.
Had a good breakfast in Belorado and also bought something like a big
mamon the night before just in case. Kept walking with a couple of
water breaks till Villafranca Montes de Oca, 12 km away. Had a ham and
tomato bocadillo and a coke. And a cafe con leech. By 1145 I was back
on the road and this stage went on and on. There were several climbs
(not very high), but mostly just long, long stretches of open road
under the sun. It felt like a very, very long 12 km. till San Juan de
Ortega. A lot of it was through woods (on the side, so no protection).
Not really difficult, but tedious. I kept asking when do we get there.
Finally got to San Juan de Ortega a little after 3. Bought a cold
drink from a vend, which did funny things with change again. Took
pictures. Lots of people around (tourist buses as I mentioned).
From San Juan another hour and a half to Atapuerca. It was great to
have a shower!
Many people I now meet over and over again. An Italian swiss
gentleman, who stayed in the same pension, but whom I met back in
Roncesvalles, a coupled of Italians whom I see at mass and who
congratulated me on getting to San Juan. New ones: a young man from
Sweden and a Brazilian, who were walking together.
Last night, the priest who said the Pentecost mass in the Church of
Santa Maria in Belorado, was very good. Young, but not as young as the
night before. He gave a very good Pentecost sermon. After the mass, we
gathered in the Chapel of Santiago El Peregrino. He did a nice ritual
of blessing. I took pictures of Santiago the Pilgrim, an excellent
statue.
All for now.
DAY 11 >> Stage 10 Santo Domingo to Belorado 22.9 km, 24.4 adjusted for climb
Day 11, Stage 10: SANTO DOMINGO TO BELORADO
I decided to leave a little later, because I thought it might be very
cold. Had some of the chocolate cookies I had bought earlier for
breakfast. Left a little after 8 am.
The big news is that I bought a new paper of walking shoes yesterday,
one size bigger, european 43 rather than the 42 I had earlier. That
has solved the problem. This gave my toes more room and they could
land on the road more properly. No more pain! Lessons learned: Our
feet really expand in these long walks. Our toes need room, they were
made to be free.
It was a very simple road today. Good roads, very few rough spots.
From Santo Domingo it was 7 km to the first stop, Granon, a small
town, where I had a cafe con leech and some kind of donuts. Ran into
Paul again and we walked together for a while and remarked on the
sounds around, including frogs from the nearby stream. He mentioned
talking to a young man, who found being alone on the road depressing,
so much so that he would take a taxi rather than keep walking alone.
From Granon, I thought there would be a coupled more stops where I
could get something to eat. But at each of them (Redecilla del Camino,
4km from Granon,Viloria de la Rioja another 3.5 km, there were cafe/
rests advertised along the way. But they were all closed for the
weekend. People take vacations and weekends seriously here.
I was disappointed that the cafe at Castilldelgado, just before
Viloria de la Rioja, was closed. It is called El Chocolatero and I
would have loved to get a timbre on my credencial with such a name!
I finally got lunch 5 km from Belorado, at Villamayor del Rio, at a
Restaurante Leon, had eggs and ham.
Got to Belorado at 4 pm, got to my hotel Jacobeo and found they had
cancelled my reservation. They were calling me on my cellphone on the
way to confirm, but I was not paying attention to calls on the way. No
big problem, though, as they called a nearby place, Casa Rural
Verdeancho, which is probably better anyway as it is in a quieter
area.
Hope to find mass this evening and hope the priest is as engaging as yesterday.
Tomorrow will be a bit longer 30.3 km, as I will go all the way to
Atapuerca, 6 km more than I had originally intended. It is ok as it
means the walk on Monday to Burgos will be 6 km shorter.
All for now. All the best. God bless.
I decided to leave a little later, because I thought it might be very
cold. Had some of the chocolate cookies I had bought earlier for
breakfast. Left a little after 8 am.
The big news is that I bought a new paper of walking shoes yesterday,
one size bigger, european 43 rather than the 42 I had earlier. That
has solved the problem. This gave my toes more room and they could
land on the road more properly. No more pain! Lessons learned: Our
feet really expand in these long walks. Our toes need room, they were
made to be free.
It was a very simple road today. Good roads, very few rough spots.
From Santo Domingo it was 7 km to the first stop, Granon, a small
town, where I had a cafe con leech and some kind of donuts. Ran into
Paul again and we walked together for a while and remarked on the
sounds around, including frogs from the nearby stream. He mentioned
talking to a young man, who found being alone on the road depressing,
so much so that he would take a taxi rather than keep walking alone.
From Granon, I thought there would be a coupled more stops where I
could get something to eat. But at each of them (Redecilla del Camino,
4km from Granon,Viloria de la Rioja another 3.5 km, there were cafe/
rests advertised along the way. But they were all closed for the
weekend. People take vacations and weekends seriously here.
I was disappointed that the cafe at Castilldelgado, just before
Viloria de la Rioja, was closed. It is called El Chocolatero and I
would have loved to get a timbre on my credencial with such a name!
I finally got lunch 5 km from Belorado, at Villamayor del Rio, at a
Restaurante Leon, had eggs and ham.
Got to Belorado at 4 pm, got to my hotel Jacobeo and found they had
cancelled my reservation. They were calling me on my cellphone on the
way to confirm, but I was not paying attention to calls on the way. No
big problem, though, as they called a nearby place, Casa Rural
Verdeancho, which is probably better anyway as it is in a quieter
area.
Hope to find mass this evening and hope the priest is as engaging as yesterday.
Tomorrow will be a bit longer 30.3 km, as I will go all the way to
Atapuerca, 6 km more than I had originally intended. It is ok as it
means the walk on Monday to Burgos will be 6 km shorter.
All for now. All the best. God bless.
POSTCRIPT TO DAY 10: Najera to Sto Domingo
POSTSCRIPT TO STAGE 9: NAJERA TO SANTO DOMINGO
Weather: It was very cold yesterday afternoon and evening. After lunch
in Ventosa, there was a cold wind and I had to put on my
raincoat/overcoat until arriving in Santo Domingo. Then in the evening
it really became very cold, maybe around 10 centigrade. I had to put
on several layers, including a woollen sweater. (Today is much
warmer.)
People: Coming out of Najera, I asked someone along the way to take my
photo. Turned out he was Irish, Paul, so we chatted a bit, told him I
was a Jesuit and he said his sons studied at Gonzaga high school in
Dublin. Small world, we chatted a bit more as we met along the way.
Mass in the evening at 8 pm at the Erniita chapel of our Lady was by a
young priest, very young and very good looking! Sorry I can,t send you
a picture immediately. He connected well, beginning the mass by saying
that it was a very cold summer, but he hoped that God,s love and our
love would keep us warm. He also gave an excellent homily on the
Gospel: Jesus asking Peter three times, Do you love me?
He said the mass with immense devotion, even drama, a bit like he was
only recently ordained. Prayed a lot for him for the years to come.
After the mass I went over to thank him for the mass and homily. Told
him I was a priest, he asked if diocesan or religious. I said I was a
Jesuit> He beamed and said, we owe so much to the Society. I asked for
his name and he said "Jesus," then smiled "Jesus Ignacio". We had a
photo together. I prayed for him on the camino today.
Finally, turns out Santo Domingo is a mid-size town with lots of shops.
Weather: It was very cold yesterday afternoon and evening. After lunch
in Ventosa, there was a cold wind and I had to put on my
raincoat/overcoat until arriving in Santo Domingo. Then in the evening
it really became very cold, maybe around 10 centigrade. I had to put
on several layers, including a woollen sweater. (Today is much
warmer.)
People: Coming out of Najera, I asked someone along the way to take my
photo. Turned out he was Irish, Paul, so we chatted a bit, told him I
was a Jesuit and he said his sons studied at Gonzaga high school in
Dublin. Small world, we chatted a bit more as we met along the way.
Mass in the evening at 8 pm at the Erniita chapel of our Lady was by a
young priest, very young and very good looking! Sorry I can,t send you
a picture immediately. He connected well, beginning the mass by saying
that it was a very cold summer, but he hoped that God,s love and our
love would keep us warm. He also gave an excellent homily on the
Gospel: Jesus asking Peter three times, Do you love me?
He said the mass with immense devotion, even drama, a bit like he was
only recently ordained. Prayed a lot for him for the years to come.
After the mass I went over to thank him for the mass and homily. Told
him I was a priest, he asked if diocesan or religious. I said I was a
Jesuit> He beamed and said, we owe so much to the Society. I asked for
his name and he said "Jesus," then smiled "Jesus Ignacio". We had a
photo together. I prayed for him on the camino today.
Finally, turns out Santo Domingo is a mid-size town with lots of shops.
Day 10 (Stage 9)Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada (21 km, 22.5 adjusted for climb)
This computer recognizes my camino2011 group.
It is June 10 and I am on the 9th stage of my camino. Today is a
relatively short stage and so I took a full breakfast (big croissant,
hard roll, slice of ham and cheese, butter, jam, cafe con leche). Left
Najera around 8:30 AM.
The way today is simple. It passed through the old part of Najera,
past the Church of Santa Maria, where I had wanted to go to mass last
night, but the priest did not come, then up through a wooded reserve
of the town. Very pleasant.
First stop is an old town Azofra after a little less than 2 hours (6
km). Stopped and had another cafe con leche and rested a bit for the
next longer stage.
Next stage goes almost 10 km with a climb of about 250 meters. Quite
pleasant. The road is wide and smooth -- except in a couple of
stretches, which were very muddy and only a very narrow part to walk
without getting stuck in mud.
The day was great for walking. Cloudy, with only a little rain, so
cool and pleasant.
Next stop was Cirueña, a very nice little town with a very nice
Church. A kilometer before Cirueña proper is a new development, with
lots of apartments and a golf course. But it got hit by the economic
downturn and so one sees "Se Vende". for sale signs all over the
place.
Got to Cirueña around 1 pm and took a leisurely lunch. I have learned
that apart from bocadillos, they serve platos mixtos (all have french
fries, eggs, cooked green pepper and choice of ham, sausage, etc.). I
chose the ham and it was excellent. Asked the waiter to take a photo.
From Cirueña to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is less than 6 km and so I
had a leisurely walk after lunch and got here at Santo Domingo before
4 pm.
It turns out that Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a very important
historical town. First, it is named after a saint born around 1019 and
who was very key in the development of the Camino, thus the name. The
town was the seat of the diocese for centuries and I was amazed at how
elaborate the Cathedral is and how magnificent the treasures in it.
Among the most interesting tourist parts is a live cock up on one of
the pillars. It is attached to the story of a young man, wrongfully
accused of theft and executed, but whose voice was heard by his
parents saying that he was alive thanks to Santo Domingo. When the
parents told this to the leader of the town, the man replied: "Your
son is about as alive as the roast cock and hen I am about to eat." At
that point, the cock and hen jumped out of his plate and began to
sing. They have a saying:Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where then crows
after being roasted. Took several photos of the live cock.
All for now. I will try to see if getting shoes slightly bigger and
wider might solve my pain in the toes problem. Dr. Canlas had
suggested that my present shoes may be too snug.
All for now. Its another relatively short stage to Belorado tomorrow.
It is June 10 and I am on the 9th stage of my camino. Today is a
relatively short stage and so I took a full breakfast (big croissant,
hard roll, slice of ham and cheese, butter, jam, cafe con leche). Left
Najera around 8:30 AM.
The way today is simple. It passed through the old part of Najera,
past the Church of Santa Maria, where I had wanted to go to mass last
night, but the priest did not come, then up through a wooded reserve
of the town. Very pleasant.
First stop is an old town Azofra after a little less than 2 hours (6
km). Stopped and had another cafe con leche and rested a bit for the
next longer stage.
Next stage goes almost 10 km with a climb of about 250 meters. Quite
pleasant. The road is wide and smooth -- except in a couple of
stretches, which were very muddy and only a very narrow part to walk
without getting stuck in mud.
The day was great for walking. Cloudy, with only a little rain, so
cool and pleasant.
Next stop was Cirueña, a very nice little town with a very nice
Church. A kilometer before Cirueña proper is a new development, with
lots of apartments and a golf course. But it got hit by the economic
downturn and so one sees "Se Vende". for sale signs all over the
place.
Got to Cirueña around 1 pm and took a leisurely lunch. I have learned
that apart from bocadillos, they serve platos mixtos (all have french
fries, eggs, cooked green pepper and choice of ham, sausage, etc.). I
chose the ham and it was excellent. Asked the waiter to take a photo.
From Cirueña to Santo Domingo de la Calzada is less than 6 km and so I
had a leisurely walk after lunch and got here at Santo Domingo before
4 pm.
It turns out that Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a very important
historical town. First, it is named after a saint born around 1019 and
who was very key in the development of the Camino, thus the name. The
town was the seat of the diocese for centuries and I was amazed at how
elaborate the Cathedral is and how magnificent the treasures in it.
Among the most interesting tourist parts is a live cock up on one of
the pillars. It is attached to the story of a young man, wrongfully
accused of theft and executed, but whose voice was heard by his
parents saying that he was alive thanks to Santo Domingo. When the
parents told this to the leader of the town, the man replied: "Your
son is about as alive as the roast cock and hen I am about to eat." At
that point, the cock and hen jumped out of his plate and began to
sing. They have a saying:Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where then crows
after being roasted. Took several photos of the live cock.
All for now. I will try to see if getting shoes slightly bigger and
wider might solve my pain in the toes problem. Dr. Canlas had
suggested that my present shoes may be too snug.
All for now. Its another relatively short stage to Belorado tomorrow.
POSTCRIPT to Day 9: Logrono to Najera
Postscript to Day 9, Stage 8, at Najera.
I tried to go to the 7 pm mass at Santa Maria Church. It started drizzling on the way and it was good I found a group of ladies who told me there would be no mass this evening. I would have gotten wet for nothing.
I eventually went into a bar and had a beer till the rain let up (one good thing about rain here is that it does not last long).
The reason for this postscript is that I had dinner at Los Parrales, by the river of Najera which is the key thing in the town. What struck me was how much the evening paseo is such a central thing in the life of the town. Couples, whole families were making paseo along the riverbank. Several had an evening drink by Los Parrales, but more simply took walks with their little children. NIce thing to see. Of course, it helps that it is light till 10 pm.
Other things that strike one from our part of the world.1) I pass through many towns and villages along the way and most of the time there is no one around, quite striking for us where there are always people, 2) A lot of people, young and old, men and women, smoke and the streets are littered with cigarette butts, 3) at the cafe bars where I stop for a drink or snack, the locals stop by for a beer or wine or other alcoholic drink at any time, 9 am, 11 am, 1 pm, etc. 4) Big groups come in around 1 pm and it is clearly a social as well as a drinking (with a little eating) event.
Finally, on my menu del peregrino at Los Parrales, I ordered much the same thing as at Los Arcos (vegetable first dish, lomo steak for main dish, ice cream for dessert.) Difference is I finished everything here, unlike Los ARcos where I finished barely half. Maybe I was hungrier or their cooking is better or (you always have a choice of either wine or water, not both, for drink) I ordered wine this time! Did not at Los Arcos as I was still going to the 8 pm mass.
Anyway, took pics of the people taking paseo and of the dishes.
All the best.
Sent from my iPod
Sent from my iPod
Day 3 Zubiri to Pamplona
Postscript: Forgot to mention that we passed a monument to a Japanese peregrino who died on the way from Roncesvalles to Zubiri, Shingo Yamashita.
I am now in the Jesuit community for the Colegio de San Ignacio here in Pamplona. One of the Jesuits, Fr. Juan Bautista Larralde, took time to show me around Pamplona. He talked most of the time and I was able to follow and reply to most of his comments. I am glad he was with me as he showed me the place where St. Ignatius fell and a monument to him. Also the Cathedral and a monument to what Pamplona is most famous for to many people, the running of the bulls.
I am now in the Jesuit community for the Colegio de San Ignacio here in Pamplona. One of the Jesuits, Fr. Juan Bautista Larralde, took time to show me around Pamplona. He talked most of the time and I was able to follow and reply to most of his comments. I am glad he was with me as he showed me the place where St. Ignatius fell and a monument to him. Also the Cathedral and a monument to what Pamplona is most famous for to many people, the running of the bulls.
I arrived here around 4 pm. The last two hours were quite hot. I hope the rest of the camino won't be so hot.
Left Zubiri 7:45 AM. I thought I might get to Pamplona by 2 or 3 pm.
But a combination of fatigue and sore toes (no blisters thank God)
slowed me down. I find the steep downhill parts difficult because my
toes press against the shoe and are painful. Maybe I should learn to
just ignore the pain as it is not blisters.
Lesson learned this stage is to check where I might get lunch along
the way. The guidebook listed quite a few villages we would be passing and I assumed I could stop and get something to eat from them, but it turns out they are so small they don't have even the simplest of eating places. The paths this time were different: very narrow, just a couple of feet in width, way above the main highway, so one can see the cars and trucks way below. So instead of lunch around 12 noon, it was 1:30 pm and I was quite tired and hungry. The last 4 kilometers seemed to stretch on and on, maybe because I was tired. I got worried about dehydration as I finished all my water. Fortunately, in the last 2 km I ran into a man on the narrow road who was selling soft drinks (colorum I think), so I bought an orange drink and had a good chat with him. But another lesson learned is to take a longish break: I took an hour for the lunch and felt much better for the last two hours.
Many groups along the camino, dominantly French, German, Spanish, but a Russian couple too.
Left Zubiri 7:45 AM. I thought I might get to Pamplona by 2 or 3 pm.
But a combination of fatigue and sore toes (no blisters thank God)
slowed me down. I find the steep downhill parts difficult because my
toes press against the shoe and are painful. Maybe I should learn to
just ignore the pain as it is not blisters.
Lesson learned this stage is to check where I might get lunch along
the way. The guidebook listed quite a few villages we would be passing and I assumed I could stop and get something to eat from them, but it turns out they are so small they don't have even the simplest of eating places. The paths this time were different: very narrow, just a couple of feet in width, way above the main highway, so one can see the cars and trucks way below. So instead of lunch around 12 noon, it was 1:30 pm and I was quite tired and hungry. The last 4 kilometers seemed to stretch on and on, maybe because I was tired. I got worried about dehydration as I finished all my water. Fortunately, in the last 2 km I ran into a man on the narrow road who was selling soft drinks (colorum I think), so I bought an orange drink and had a good chat with him. But another lesson learned is to take a longish break: I took an hour for the lunch and felt much better for the last two hours.
Many groups along the camino, dominantly French, German, Spanish, but a Russian couple too.
There is quite a change in the last hours of this stage as one leaves the very rural parts of Navarre and enters a big city, Pamplona. These last two hours are through suburbs of Pamplona, along main thoroughfares with lots of cars and stoplights. It was good my guidebook had a simple map. With its help I was able to deviate from the designated path for peregrinos and make my way to the Jesuit house. Though it took some time and several inquiries before I found it. Had a good dinner with some of them -- was able to carry on a basic conversation in Spanish. They were patient.
Tomorrow I go to Puente de la Reina. I am not too happy about the 300m climb and similar descent.
Above all, I hope my toes don't hurt more. The good news is my
shoulders are ok.
All the best.
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