Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Day 12: Belorado to Atapuerca, 30.4 km (32.9 adjusted for climbs)

The stage today went longer than in my original plan, which was to go
Belorado to San Juan de Ortega, 24.3 km, but all the staying places in
San Juan were booked (when I passed by, there were several tourist
buses parked, so a lot of tourists). I was referred to Atapuerca, 6 km
further and am here now staying at casa rural Papasol, right beside
the parish church.

It was a very long, but now particularly difficult walk. The main
difficulty was the heat, as most of the way, from noon on, was under
the sun. It was great when there were shaded places. In terms of time,
I left 8 am and arrived in Atapuerca  5 pm, with about an hour for a
lunch and a couple of refreshment breaks, so 8 hours or more of
walking.

Had a good breakfast in Belorado and also bought something like a big
mamon the night before just in case. Kept walking with a couple of
water breaks till Villafranca Montes de Oca, 12 km away. Had a ham and
tomato bocadillo and a coke. And a cafe con leech. By 1145 I was back
on the road and this stage went on and on. There were several climbs
(not very high), but mostly just long, long stretches of open road
under the sun. It felt like a very, very long 12 km. till San Juan de
Ortega. A lot of it was through woods (on the side, so no protection).
Not really difficult, but tedious. I kept asking when do we get there.

Finally got to San Juan de Ortega a little after 3. Bought a cold
drink from a vend, which did funny things with change again. Took
pictures. Lots of people around (tourist buses as I mentioned).

From San Juan another hour and a half to Atapuerca. It was great to
have  a shower!

Many people I now meet over and over again. An Italian swiss
gentleman, who stayed in the same pension, but whom I met back in
Roncesvalles, a coupled of Italians whom I see at mass and who
congratulated me on getting to San Juan. New ones: a young man from
Sweden and a Brazilian, who were walking together.

Last night, the priest who said the Pentecost mass in the Church of
Santa Maria in Belorado, was very good. Young, but not as young as the
night before. He gave a very good Pentecost sermon. After the mass, we
gathered in the Chapel of Santiago El Peregrino. He did a nice ritual
of blessing. I took pictures of Santiago the Pilgrim, an excellent
statue.

All for now.

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