Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Day 17: June 17, 2011 Castrojeriz to Fromista, 25.2 km, 26.4 adjusted for climb

Postcript from last night: I attended the 7 pm mass at the Iglesia San
Juan together with the French couple, Alain and Pascale. Aside from us
three, there were just 4 other old ladies. The mass was simple, no
homily. After the mass we went over to thank the priest and when I
told him I was a Catholic priest, he said you should have
concelebrated with me. We then had dinner at a bar/restaurant. The
dining room was full, but the bartender, Antonio, fixed a place for us
in the area of the bar (usually for people who just want a beer and
maybe a sandwich). This actually turned out better, as Antonio was
very engaging and he kept chatting with us. We had time to talk about
the Church in France and in the Philippines, how few people go to
Church in France. (Actually, the people of Castrojeriz usually go to
the morning mass at the nuns' convent). I told them that pretty much
all Churches in Manila will have one or two Saturday evening masses
and up to 7 or more masses on Sunday. They said, we have mass Saturday
night and no mass at all on Sunday.

Today was a relatively long day on the camino. The walk was actually
one km longer than the official distance, as my pension was one km
further away. Did not meet and interact with many people today. Either
we got up at different times or what, but I was alone on the camino
most of the time.

First stage was from Castrojeriz to a high point, Alto Mostelares, a
climb of about 100 meters, quite steep going up and even more steep
going down (which I dislike more). Compared to other stages, not
particularly difficult. But I noted two memorials to men who died on
the camino, I suppose in those spots, these are the 3rd and 4th I have
seen. From the high point, the next key point was a shaded rest place
Fuente del Piojo where it was pleasant to stop among shady trees and
benches and have a drink from my water bottle. There was a French
couple I run into off and on on the camino and I asked the man to take
my photo. Refilled my water bottle from a clear spring source. From
there around 5 km to an albergue in Itero de la Vega, where I decided
to have lunch. The French couple also did. Not a good choice, should
have stopped at the bar earlier. They took a very long time preparing
my plato combinado, I asked for eggs and some meat (pork strips), they
served rice. But the rice was cold and did not taste good and the rest
was not very good. When the French couple caught up with me on the
camino, they said "VEry bad food" and I agreed. Will be more
discriminating in the future.

From the lunch place were two very long stretches on the open meseta,
sun was out and so it was warm, but this was mitigated by a strong
breeze/headwind, so it never felt very warm. First stretch was 8 km to
Boadilla del Camino, where the French couple would be staying. I
stopped at Boadillo a while in a shaded place, drank water and had the
orange, which the lunch place had given me (best part of their meal).
Should buy more oranges, they really taste good in the heat.

Then the last stretch of 6 km to Fromista. Fortunately, this stage has
stretches along shaded trees, so much cooler.  But still a long
stretch after an already long day. Finally got into Fromista around
3:45 pm, got into my pension, Marisa, and was very glad to get a
shower and rest. You really appreciate these things after the long
walks.

It is past 6:30 pm here in Fromista. Will be going to the 8 pm mass,
will probably meet Alain and Pascale, as they were also going to
Fromista. Dinner and then rest, can get up later tomorrow as the stage
tomorrow to Carrion is only 20 km.



All the best.

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