Postscript from last night: There was no mass in the Church, so spent
some time in quiet prayer. I had dinner with 3 French and 2 Germans,
among the French the couple with whom I had the bad lunch at an
albergue a couple of days earlier. We were cordial, but could not
really converse much -- between the French and Germans, not much
either. But it was a good dinner, a soup of some kind of grain with
some garlic and broiled trout with salad. Went to bed early, around
9:30. All the others in the room were already sleeping. I was quite
impressed how considerate everyone was. The room was very quiet --
there was an occasional snore, but never lasted long. Slept well.
I also forgot that yesterday was kind of a red-letter day on the
camino for me. I crossed the halfway mark to Santiago yesterday.
Terradillos de los Templarios is 387.5 km from Santiago. El Burgo
Ranero where I am now is 355 km from Santiago. Nice to have done over
half.
Day 20: Terradillos de los Templarios to El Burgo Ranero, 30. 7 km.
When I awakened at 5:15, 4 of the group was already getting ready to
go. They did it very quietly, not turning on the light. They brought
their stuff to a kind of sala outside the sleeping room to fix them
there. The albergue does not serve breakfast till 7, but there is a
machine for coffee, snacks etc. I thought I could leave early too, but
realized I should stay till 7 to make sure I leave my mochila for
jacotrans with the staff when they come in at 7. However, I did have 2
cafe con leche from the machine and a breakfast from doughnuts I had
with me and the remains of my choco chip cookies.
Today was a long walk. I left around 7:15 AM and got to El Burgo
Ranero at 4:45 pm. However, it was not a very difficult day. First, my
right little toe, which continued to cause a little pain over the last
days (as it was bruised from squeezing from my earlier shoes), finally
settled down and was fine. Also, while it was long, it was less boring
as it passed various towns and cities and the terrain changed a lot
more. Finally, on the last long stretch from just before 2 pm to
almost 5 pm, the long road stretches were lined with trees (not
completely, but enough to be much cooler). It was still hot though.
The first part of the day was a gentle climb till we passed the town
Moratinos 3 km into the walk. People were not yet awake ( 8 am). 3 km
later we passed San Nicolas del Real Camino and then 7 km later the
city of Sahagun. I looked for a place to eat and finally found myself
in the Plaza Mayor and saw a panaderia, bought a bocadillo with
scrambled eggs and potatoes and a can of coke and sat in a shady area
of the plaza. The bread was much better than in the bars, I guess
freshly baked by the panaderia. Watched the people -- old men sitting
around chatting, young people eating, drinking from the fountain, etc.
Churches were closed so I just passed by them. This was around 11:00
AM. Left Sahagun before 12 and headed for Berciamos del Real Camino
(10 km away) and later for El Burgo Ranero (another 7.6 km). It was
warm, but there was a gentle breeze to compensate.
When I got to Berciamos, went into a bar and asked for a bottle of
cold water and a coke. Sat and drank down the cold water (one really
appreciates this after a hot walk) and then ate the remains of my
chocolate bar with the coke. As I was finishing, my French friends,
Alain and Pascale, came in. They were staying in Berciamos for the
night. they were in the other albergue in Terradillos and Pascale had
been down with as stomach ailment, probably from something from the
dinner in Carrion. I was not much affected by it, nor was Alain. But
they had to take a ride to Sahagun this morning and get some
medicines. Pascale is now fine. We chatted for a while and agreed to
have dinner tomorrow in Mansillas de las Mulas.
From Berciamos is just a little under 2 hours to El Burgo Ranero. Not
difficult, but a lot under the sun, though there were trees along the
way. I was very glad to finally enter El Burgo just before 5 pm.
Am now at Hostal El Peregrino. Will wash up and rest.
all for now.
some time in quiet prayer. I had dinner with 3 French and 2 Germans,
among the French the couple with whom I had the bad lunch at an
albergue a couple of days earlier. We were cordial, but could not
really converse much -- between the French and Germans, not much
either. But it was a good dinner, a soup of some kind of grain with
some garlic and broiled trout with salad. Went to bed early, around
9:30. All the others in the room were already sleeping. I was quite
impressed how considerate everyone was. The room was very quiet --
there was an occasional snore, but never lasted long. Slept well.
I also forgot that yesterday was kind of a red-letter day on the
camino for me. I crossed the halfway mark to Santiago yesterday.
Terradillos de los Templarios is 387.5 km from Santiago. El Burgo
Ranero where I am now is 355 km from Santiago. Nice to have done over
half.
Day 20: Terradillos de los Templarios to El Burgo Ranero, 30. 7 km.
When I awakened at 5:15, 4 of the group was already getting ready to
go. They did it very quietly, not turning on the light. They brought
their stuff to a kind of sala outside the sleeping room to fix them
there. The albergue does not serve breakfast till 7, but there is a
machine for coffee, snacks etc. I thought I could leave early too, but
realized I should stay till 7 to make sure I leave my mochila for
jacotrans with the staff when they come in at 7. However, I did have 2
cafe con leche from the machine and a breakfast from doughnuts I had
with me and the remains of my choco chip cookies.
Today was a long walk. I left around 7:15 AM and got to El Burgo
Ranero at 4:45 pm. However, it was not a very difficult day. First, my
right little toe, which continued to cause a little pain over the last
days (as it was bruised from squeezing from my earlier shoes), finally
settled down and was fine. Also, while it was long, it was less boring
as it passed various towns and cities and the terrain changed a lot
more. Finally, on the last long stretch from just before 2 pm to
almost 5 pm, the long road stretches were lined with trees (not
completely, but enough to be much cooler). It was still hot though.
The first part of the day was a gentle climb till we passed the town
Moratinos 3 km into the walk. People were not yet awake ( 8 am). 3 km
later we passed San Nicolas del Real Camino and then 7 km later the
city of Sahagun. I looked for a place to eat and finally found myself
in the Plaza Mayor and saw a panaderia, bought a bocadillo with
scrambled eggs and potatoes and a can of coke and sat in a shady area
of the plaza. The bread was much better than in the bars, I guess
freshly baked by the panaderia. Watched the people -- old men sitting
around chatting, young people eating, drinking from the fountain, etc.
Churches were closed so I just passed by them. This was around 11:00
AM. Left Sahagun before 12 and headed for Berciamos del Real Camino
(10 km away) and later for El Burgo Ranero (another 7.6 km). It was
warm, but there was a gentle breeze to compensate.
When I got to Berciamos, went into a bar and asked for a bottle of
cold water and a coke. Sat and drank down the cold water (one really
appreciates this after a hot walk) and then ate the remains of my
chocolate bar with the coke. As I was finishing, my French friends,
Alain and Pascale, came in. They were staying in Berciamos for the
night. they were in the other albergue in Terradillos and Pascale had
been down with as stomach ailment, probably from something from the
dinner in Carrion. I was not much affected by it, nor was Alain. But
they had to take a ride to Sahagun this morning and get some
medicines. Pascale is now fine. We chatted for a while and agreed to
have dinner tomorrow in Mansillas de las Mulas.
From Berciamos is just a little under 2 hours to El Burgo Ranero. Not
difficult, but a lot under the sun, though there were trees along the
way. I was very glad to finally enter El Burgo just before 5 pm.
Am now at Hostal El Peregrino. Will wash up and rest.
all for now.
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