This comes a day late, because Hornillos remains in its medieval
state, quiet etc. and no internet. Good experience to be in a place
happy to leave the rest of the world alone.
I left the Jesuit residence in Burgos early, around 7 am, and
connected to the main route. I dropped off my bigger backpack at Hotel
España to be picked up by Jacotrans for my next stop.
First 5 km is outskirts of Burgos, getting out of big cities is always
a challenge. Especially making sure not to get lost. I tried to keep
peregrinos ahead of me in sight. In a couple of places, citizens of
Burgos were very helpful. Out of Burgos one enters the famous mesetas
(flat plateaus) of Castillo y Leon. Fairly good earth trails, the
challenge is that they go on and on. I thought that they are the
equivalent of the desert in spiritual experience, changeless land, you
keep asking when does it end. Or like what we used to call De More
(usual schedule) in novitiate and juniorate, changeless, boring days,
but essential. Today was challenging mainly because the sun was out,
no trees (or hardly any) on the mesetas so it was hot. The main effect
of the peregrinacion on me (aside from probably losing weight) is
sunburnt skin. One of the Jesuits at Burgos asked if I was darker from
the walks and I showed him the difference in my arm, between the
section covered by my wristwatch and the rest of the arm.
11 km into the walk was the first stop where you could get something,
Tarjados. I stopped at a store that sold soft drinks and sandwiches
and got a ham and cheese bocadillo. Found myself seated beside two
Japanese ladies, struggling a bit with their full mochilas. We talked
a bit. One of them asked if I was a priest and said that she just
retired from working with the Bishops´conference of Japan. A little
over 2 km later at Rabe de los Calzados we met again at the fountain,
where I refilled my water jug. We took pictures this time and had an
interesting conversation with a Spanish lady, who liked to engage
peregrinos. She warned us about the perils of the road, especially
bedbugs in the albergues, which she says invade everything: your
clothes, etc.
As one reaches last ridge before Hornillos, one sees Hornillos in the
distance. A Frenchman caught up with me and asked me to take his photo
with the town in the background. I asked him to do the same for me and
we chatted in my basic French. He was quite flattering about my French
(which is quite basic). There was then the very steep descent with
loose stones, along what is called Cuesta Matamulos, Mule-Killer
slope. I imagined mules in medieval times slipping an breaking a leg,
esp in wet weather.
Then Hornillos, really quiet. So much so that the only bar/resto in
town starts serving supper at 6 pm. I sat with another Japanese,
Hiroshi, who has just retired from his work and is taking 44 days to
get to Santiago. He might arrive there just before the Feast of St.
James.
Then slept early. All for Day 15.
state, quiet etc. and no internet. Good experience to be in a place
happy to leave the rest of the world alone.
I left the Jesuit residence in Burgos early, around 7 am, and
connected to the main route. I dropped off my bigger backpack at Hotel
España to be picked up by Jacotrans for my next stop.
First 5 km is outskirts of Burgos, getting out of big cities is always
a challenge. Especially making sure not to get lost. I tried to keep
peregrinos ahead of me in sight. In a couple of places, citizens of
Burgos were very helpful. Out of Burgos one enters the famous mesetas
(flat plateaus) of Castillo y Leon. Fairly good earth trails, the
challenge is that they go on and on. I thought that they are the
equivalent of the desert in spiritual experience, changeless land, you
keep asking when does it end. Or like what we used to call De More
(usual schedule) in novitiate and juniorate, changeless, boring days,
but essential. Today was challenging mainly because the sun was out,
no trees (or hardly any) on the mesetas so it was hot. The main effect
of the peregrinacion on me (aside from probably losing weight) is
sunburnt skin. One of the Jesuits at Burgos asked if I was darker from
the walks and I showed him the difference in my arm, between the
section covered by my wristwatch and the rest of the arm.
11 km into the walk was the first stop where you could get something,
Tarjados. I stopped at a store that sold soft drinks and sandwiches
and got a ham and cheese bocadillo. Found myself seated beside two
Japanese ladies, struggling a bit with their full mochilas. We talked
a bit. One of them asked if I was a priest and said that she just
retired from working with the Bishops´conference of Japan. A little
over 2 km later at Rabe de los Calzados we met again at the fountain,
where I refilled my water jug. We took pictures this time and had an
interesting conversation with a Spanish lady, who liked to engage
peregrinos. She warned us about the perils of the road, especially
bedbugs in the albergues, which she says invade everything: your
clothes, etc.
As one reaches last ridge before Hornillos, one sees Hornillos in the
distance. A Frenchman caught up with me and asked me to take his photo
with the town in the background. I asked him to do the same for me and
we chatted in my basic French. He was quite flattering about my French
(which is quite basic). There was then the very steep descent with
loose stones, along what is called Cuesta Matamulos, Mule-Killer
slope. I imagined mules in medieval times slipping an breaking a leg,
esp in wet weather.
Then Hornillos, really quiet. So much so that the only bar/resto in
town starts serving supper at 6 pm. I sat with another Japanese,
Hiroshi, who has just retired from his work and is taking 44 days to
get to Santiago. He might arrive there just before the Feast of St.
James.
Then slept early. All for Day 15.
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