Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Day 21 El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas, 18.8 km

Today was a relatively light day. After the long previous two days (27
km and 30.7 km resp.) today was only 18.8 along wide sendas with
enough trees to make the way not so hot. I am one day away from Leon,
where I will have a rest day with the Jesuit community. Something to
look forward to. The guidebook also says that this is Fiesta time in
Leon (San Juan and San Pedro) and hopefully there may be what the
guidebook describes; running of the bulls during the day and concerts
and fireworks at night!

Had a good night's sleep, maybe partly fatigue from the long 30.7 km
walk and partly from shifting to beer from the wine I had been taking
with my meals. Top brand here is San Miguel (top soft drink, coca
cola). Got up relatively late and had breakfast at 7:30. I was
surprised to learn that the pension (El Peregrino) served breakfast as
early as 5 am. An impossibly early hour in Spain. Left past 8 am and
had a straight walk for the next 13 km to the main stopping place
before my destination, a place called Reliegos.

As I said the path was good with enough shade trees. Also rest areas
along the way (with benches and shade). Those along the way with me
were mostly French and some Germans. Had a rather slow pace this
morning, but there was no need to speed up. The areas we passed were
quite nice, but much the same unending fields. Noted lots of signs
pushing for autonomy for the Province of Leon (Leon solo or something
similar) -- out of the present region of Burgos, Palencia and Leon.

Got to Reliegos before noon and had a hot meal (not too many of
these): two eggs with jamon serrano and good bread (and a can of
coke). Tasted great! As I was finishing, my French friends, Alain and
Pascale, arrived. They left their place earlier and caught up. We ran
into each other again along the way and agreed to have dinner together
tonight. Turns out mass here in Mansilla is 8:30 PM, so we will have
dinner at 7 before mass.

Mansilla de las Mulas is an ancient camino town going back to the 12th
century. Will take a walk later when it is cooler (it is 4 pm and
still rather hot -- remember sun is up till 10 pm).

The guidebook says I am 336.1 km to Santiago. There are still a couple
of challenges, the cold at the highest peak with the Cruz de Ferro
(1505 meters) on Day 27 and the steep climb to O'Cebreiro ( from 600
meters to  1300 meters) on Day 29. Will have to check in Leon if I
need to get an extra sweater for the cold.

Otherwise I am well, feel quite healthy. Have probably lost quite a
bit of weight.

All for now.

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